Big-Wave Mindfulness: Surfing For A Connection

Surfing is mindfulness in action. Riding the biggest waves is an all-out, fully-present-or-die-trying proposition.

Thanks to a persistent case of aquaphobia, I've never tried surfing. However, I've done my share of snowboarding, and I am trying to imagine what it would be like to carve the slopes with several tons of avalanche chasing me down the mountain.

First of all, I would have to hike to the top and wait to catch the biggest avalanche, getting pummeled by several in the process. Oh, and then try not to think too much about the abominable snowman poised to take a hunk out of my leg when I least expect it.

Yeah. I'm stoked.

I don't really "get" surfing, but I stand in awe of it. It's impossible to avoid acknowledging the strength, timing, grace and heart-blazing courage required just to catch those enormous waves, let alone ride them smoothly without wiping out.

Whether or not you're into water, "Riding Giants" is a breathtaking film guaranteed to raise your pulse rate. Following the rise of big wave surfing from its ragtag roots in the fifties to the jet-ski boosted endorsement deals of today, "Riding Giants" offers a fascinating look at surf culture in all its guts and glory--not to mention its sun-bleached hair, wave-toned bodies, and plenty of pre-cancerous skin cells.

Although several world-class surfers are profiled, the one I find most amazing is Jeff Clark, a 43-year-old native of Half Moon Bay, California who is credited with discovering Mavericks, a notoriously gnarly big wave mecca twenty miles south of San Francisco.

Clark spotted the monstrous waves from the cliffs of Half Moon Bay as a teenager. One day, he decided to paddle the half-mile in chilly ocean water to check it out. Never mind that he was too far out for his worried friend--or anyone else--to save him. Forget that these waves would turn out to be so huge that, years later, seasoned pros from Waimea would find them jaw-dropping. Disregard the razor-sharp rocks waiting to chew up anyone unfortunate enough to be slammed to the shore.

Clark had his first of many ride-of-your-life experiences that day. He couldn't believe the power of it, the magic, the unimaginable thrill.

He went out to surf that incredible vortex every day. Alone. For fifteen years.

I'm guessing that his parents were either a) clueless about where he was, or b) powerless to prevent him from returning. He couldn't find anyone insane enough to join him.

He wasn't doing it for the attention, for the chicks, for the cameras, or for the money. He was out there getting pounded for the sake of that big ol' grin on his face and the unfathomable sense of connection to something larger than himself.

Clark was like some modern day ascetic, putting himself through tortuous rites and death defying acts of faith while living in seclusion. He became one with the water on a daily basis through rigorous attention and exhaustive exploration.

I am humbled. I envy him. And I can't stop thinking about how most of us will never have this all-consuming passion or such a magnificent opportunity to experience oneness with anything.

Jeff Clark may be crazy. He may be obsessed. But he is a man whose mindfulness has inspired and elevated him--and saved his skin on numerous occasions.

We should all be so lucky to discover such a wondrous wave.

Maya Talisman Frost is a mind masseuse in Portland, Oregon. Through her company, Real-World Mindfulness Training, she teaches fun and effective eyes-wide-open alternatives to meditation. To subscribe to her free weekly ezine, the Friday Mind Massage, please visit http://www.MassageYourMind.com

---

Beyond the River: Kabbalahs Guidance for Our Times

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and... Read More

The Meaning of Life

Life ?.. Indeed is full of learning's, experiences, facts and... Read More

Re-Developing Your Vision

One of the most important things we can do for... Read More

My Favorite Movies Journal

The movies--what a wonderful way to spend an afternoon! I... Read More

Material Girl

Direct Answers - Column for the week of December 16,... Read More

Navigating The Squeeze

Today more than ever before, we are witnessing a crises... Read More

What To Do When You Dont Know What To Do

It is often difficult to know exactly what to do.... Read More

Who are you?

I have a question for you.Who are you?This may be... Read More

The Meaning of Life - Not Just Another Dust in the Wind Theory

I grew up in the south in the 1960's. Married... Read More

How I Made $10,000 In One Day By Swimming Underwater!

"Without health, life is not life; it is only a... Read More

All Is Going Well?

The true test in life does not occur when all... Read More

Weapons of Mass Distraction

Anything that draws one away from the business of living... Read More

The Dead

Direct Answers - Column for the week of February 9,... Read More

What Will I Do When I Grow Up? Says The 45 Year Old Woman

I have always rather envied those people who have a... Read More

Why Be Great?

Have you ever thought of what it would take to... Read More

Top 10 Things That Make Life Worthwhile

Below are some of the things that, over the years,... Read More

The Beauty of Life

"An unexamined life is not worth living."-- SocratesI have just... Read More

Victory is an Accomplishment

Did you ever watch a bird in flight? Especially ducks... Read More

The Pursuit of Greatness

On June 3rd, 1948, a blast rocked the Black Hills... Read More

Who Are The Underminers?

How many of you had the experience growing up of... Read More

Essential Oils and Aromatherapy: Raise Your Frequency with These Divine Gifts

The volatile essences of aromatic plants contain potent, complex, natural... Read More

Overcoming Fear of Terrorism

This week I did a radical thing. I bought a... Read More

Life is a Mystery...or is it?

Being the last of three daughters, I was a suprise... Read More

The Road Not Taken

Direct Answers - Column for the week of November 24,... Read More

Product Testing

Direct Answers - Column for the week of June 24,... Read More

A Resurrection Story

My mother often wound up in the hospital during the... Read More

Transform Old Grumpy

This is a true story. A woman had Snow White... Read More

Does Introspection Assist in Self Progression?

Why would we need to examine our lives? What benefit... Read More

Tsunami

This article was channelled through me by an entity called... Read More

Reclaiming Our Resilient Spirit

Our spirits are taking a beating. The daily barrage of... Read More

Go Between

Direct Answers - Column for the week of June 16,... Read More

More Than I Can Bare

One of my long time best friends called me the... Read More

Life is Art

In my years teaching people to be successful, I have... Read More